TABLE SAW OUTFEED TABLE

Table Saw Outfeed Table / Video Walk-thru and tutorial

In this build I had to address one of my most prominent needs from my previous shop set up, my table saw outfeed table. Although, it served me well for almost 3 years, the rickety old table needed a major upgrade. So i put together a plan for a bigger and more ridged table. In this build, I partnered up with KREG to bring you my new 8'x4' table saw out feed table with some simple cabinetry.

For this project you need only basic tools, but KREG has come up with a few that make it go lightning fast. Check those out here.

• KREG Foreman
• KREG Drawer Slide Jig
• KREG Concealed Hinge Jig
• KREG Cabinet Hardware Jig
• KREG Cabinet Hardware Jig Super Pack

Check out my woodworking tools here!

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Check out the two part video on how I put the table saw outfeed table together.

Part 1: Build The Base For The Table Saw Outfeed Table

1. Break Down Stock
2. Glue Up Legs and Dimension Parts
3. Cut Joinery (Pocket Holes)
4. Assemble The Base
   Part 2: Build The Cabinet For The Table Saw Outfeed Table
5. Break Down Plywood
6. Cut Joinery (Pocket Holes)
7. Assemble Carcass
8. Cut & Assemble Face Frame
9. Finish Cabinet Assembly
10. Assemble and Mount Drawers
11. Add Drawer Fronts and Doors
12. Add Top

1. Break Down Stock

The table saw base is made up of 2"x4"'s that are cut down, jointed, planed, and made to fit the dimensions set in the plan. The plans include a cutting diagram, and are available here. Table Saw Outfeed Table Plans

I start by cutting all of my 8' parts down to rough dimensions base on the cut list in the Plans. I use primarily my miter saw for this step.

2. Glue Up Legs and Dimension Parts

I then glue up the rough stock for the leg parts. These are going to be laminated and trim down to the dimensions on the cut list using a table saw and jointer. These are meant to add stability and creates a sturdier and wider footing for the base.

Once the legs are glued up I cut the rest of the parts for the base down to size using the miter saw.

3. Cut Joinery (Pocket Hole)

For this part of the build I am using pocket hole joinery to keep it quick and simple. I use my KREG Foreman to make this process fast and simple.

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4. Assemble The Base

Once I have all of my parts cut and drilled, I begin assembly.  I start with the long stretchers and attach these to the legs using. 3" PH Screws. I add the top and bottom supports based on the measurements in the plan.

I then add the short stretchers and center support to complete the top framing for the table.

Once all of the stretchers are added, I add corner gussets for additional support.

5. Break Down Plywood

In this step you want to break down the sheet goods into the parts for the cabinet. Follow the cut list to get the specific parts and dimensions. I suggest using a track saw or a circular saw with a guide for this step. Get the sheets into manageable sizes, then cut the parts on the table saw. In this step you will also cut your toe kicks with a jigsaw based on the cut list.

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6. Cut Joinery (Pocket Holes)

For this step you want to set up your foreman or pocket hole jig for 3/4" thick material. Then cut all of your pocket holes based on the layout in the cut list.

7. Assemble the Carcass

Add one stretcher to the toe kick - add one stretcher to the top front (Flush with top of box) - add stretchers to back (top and bottom flush with back). BOTTOM SHELF WILL SIT ON TOP OF STRETCHERS, BE SURE TO HAVE TOE KICK STRETCHER AND BOTTOM BACK STRETCHER ON CABINET BOTTOM WITH POCKET HOLES FACING IN

8. Cut & Assemble the Face Frame

Using materials of choice ( scrap plywood, scarp hardwood, second sheet of plywood, etc.) cut your face frame according to the cut list and assemble using pocket hole joinery. The faceframe will be attached to the cabinet with glue and 23g pin nailers. You can also use more pocket holes, dominos, or biscuits for this process.

9. Finish Cabinet Assembly

In this step you want to finish the assembly of the cabinet. Attach the bottom using glue and face screws or nails. Attach the top middle divider, and finally attach the face frame using 23g pin nails and glue.

10. Assemble and Mount Drawers

in this step you're going to cut the drawers Cut 1/2" Dado inset 1/4" from bottom of drawer sides and front - pocket hole drawer sides NOTE: Cut drawer backs 1/2" to allow bottom panel to slide in and screw from back.

Assemble drawers with pocket holes. Insert the drawer bottom and then secure with two screws from the back.

Attach drawer slides to the drawers and the cabinet. Use the KREG drawer slide jig to attach slides inside cabinet box. NOTE: you may need to shim out the interior of the box in order to get the drawers to clear the inset door hinges.

11. Add Drawer Fronts, Doors, and Top.

Using KREG concealed hinge jig, mount hardware to doors. - Install doors in cabinet box. Using KREG Cabinet Hardware Jig , Mount drawer and door handles. Cut melamine top to size, and attach from bottom. The top should span from the cabinet all the way to table saw. Round over edges and smooth with 220 grit.

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KREG provided product/monetary payment for sponsorship of this video. All techniques, methods, thoughts, and ideas are my own and not attributed to/ or filtered by the sponsor.

Thanks for checking out this post, if you dig my projects and want to see more. Check out more of my videos HERE!