Something I’ve always admired about Pittsburgh is its stunning and iconic architecture and the recent build-up of many of its neighborhoods that maintain and honor this history. Recently I had the opportunity to usee some reclaimed barn siding in some reclaimed wood furniture. This inspired me to make a project that would showcase the skills I use to make reclaimed wood furniture for you guys.
In doing this, I decided to make a reclaimed wood buffet that highlights the natural beauty of this reclaimed wood and couldn’t be more excited about how it turned out. Below I’ll break down the project overview, tools you’ll need, and a step-by-step guide to making one for yourself. You can also check out the videos I created for this build, which I split into two videos for your viewing pleasure. Check it out!
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Kick-off this project by milling up your stock for the entire project (at least to something close to S4) and then glue-up your panels. Milling all your stock at once will save you a lot of time down the road.
Joint and plane your stock down to final dimension for your face and leg stock. Then go ahead and layout your carcass face frame. Mark and label your joinery.
Cut all of your joineries. I use a Festool Domino XL, I recommend using some sort of tenon joinery -- Tongue and groove or a floating tenon would be perfect
Cut all of your panels down to final dimensions and pre-stain them.
Glue up your carcass in stages, starting with the sides and then the back, bottom, and front. Put these pieces together and check for a level assembly.
Once the carcass is assembled, measure for your door width and drawer box size. I used 1/2″ material for the drawer sides and bottom with finger joints and ball-bearing drawer slides. Measure your box 1″ shorter than your opening.
I measure for 4 doors and cut all my rails, styles, and panels. I use tongue and groove joinery on the table saw. The grooves are cut by flipping the rails and styles and running them over the standard saw blade at 1/8″ depth and the tongues are cut with a miter gauge.
Assemble your interior panels for your door. I choose a shaker style because I wanted a flat door. In order to make it nice and ridged, I made a raised panel for my doors. Then I reversed them, so the flat side was forward. I cut these on the table saw as well taking small cuts with the blade angled at 12 or so degrees.
Next, sand your panels to 220 grit, and then pre-stained them before assembling the doors. Insert spacer balls into the doors and use glue on all the tongues. I use 23g 5/8″ pin nails to secure my doors from the back.
Using whatever methodology you prefer, assemble your drawer, making sure to leave clearance on the top and bottom for your slides. I used ball-bearing side-mounted slides. Keep in mind that these need 1″ of extra space to glide smoothly. I used finger joints and an inset panel for my drawer boxes. Clamp them up, and once they dry sand them down.
Rip all your boards for the skirt and use a router table or a shaper to cut your molding. I used a 1/2″ cove molding for my baseboard and my top trim. Cut your miters and attach them with glue and pin nails (23g). Once assembled, finish sand and apply stain with the Earlax 5500 sprayer. I use a high build, self-sealing, Endurovar product from General Finishes. Check out my reclaimed wood finish video for my tips on how to finish reclaimed wood here. I finish all the parts before assembly.
To assemble the final piece, I use my KREG Cabinet Hardware Kit and drill the holes for my European hinges. I mount my doors, insert my drawers, and add the face. And that’s a wrap -- one hell of a reclaimed wood buffet!
Thanks for checking out this build! Share your reclaimed wood furniture piece with me on Instagram at @John_Malecki, I would love to see your version!
If you liked this project, check out my other recent builds:
Want to try this build out for yourself? Download the digital plan now for step-by-step instructions, measurements, and a detailed look at how to punch this project in the face.